Plumbing Repair Cost Calculator

Plumbing Repair Costs — Detailed Breakdown

Drains and clogs

Most common service call. A simple sink or tub clog runs $125-$275 for a 1-hour visit with a hand snake. If they have to pull the trap, add $40-$75. Toilet clogs that require the auger (closet snake) usually fall in the $135-$290 range.

Main line clogs are different work — they bring a 100+ foot machine and access the cleanout. Standard rooter: $285-$650. If there's no accessible cleanout, expect another $200-$500 to install one. Hydro-jetting (high-pressure water blast for tree roots and grease) runs $500-$1,400 and is usually the right call if the same line clogs more than twice a year.

Leaks

Faucet rebuild kits cost $25-$50 in parts; with labor figure $130-$320 total. If they recommend full replacement instead of rebuild on a cheap fixture, that's usually honest — Delta and Moen rebuild parts get expensive on older models.

Visible pipe leaks (under-sink, exposed basement runs) — $180-$650 depending on whether it's a compression fitting tighten, a section replacement, or rerouting around corroded copper.

Hidden leaks (wall, ceiling, slab) — much bigger spread. Wall/ceiling leaks where they cut drywall to access run $450-$1,800 including drywall patch (or $250-$500 less if you handle the patch yourself).

Slab leaks are the worst case. Two methods:

• Spot repair (jackhammer through slab, fix, repour concrete): $1,800-$3,500
• Reroute (abandon the under-slab pipe, run new line through attic or walls): $2,500-$5,000
• Full repipe if the slab has multiple failures: $7,000-$15,000+

Older homes with original copper from the 70s/80s often start failing in clusters — once you've had two slab leaks, repipe usually wins on total cost.

Fixture replacement

Tip on toilets: spec-grade Toto, Kohler Cimarron, and American Standard Champion 4 last 25+ years. Big-box generic toilets ($89-$140) tend to need wax ring resets and flapper replacements much sooner.

Water heaters

Tank-style 40-50 gallon replacement runs $1,100-$2,200 installed, depending on:

• Brand (A.O. Smith, Bradford White, Rheem)
• Power source (gas runs $200-$400 more than electric in materials, less in operating cost)
• Whether the existing T&P valve, expansion tank, and gas line meet current code
• Access — attic and crawlspace installs add $200-$500

Tankless conversion is a bigger job: $2,800-$6,500 because most homes need an upsized gas line (3/4" min for tankless), a dedicated 240V circuit for the igniter, and new venting (PVC for condensing units, stainless for non-condensing). Don't let anyone quote a tankless install without inspecting your gas meter, line size, and electrical panel first.

Major work

Whole-house repipe. Most common reason: failing galvanized or polybutylene (Quest) supply lines. PEX is the modern standard — easier to install through finished walls, lower material cost, less labor:

• PEX: $7,000-$15,000 for a 2,000 sq ft home, 2-3 day job for a 4-person crew
• Copper: $12,000-$22,000 for the same job — sweat-soldered joints, more skilled labor, much more material cost
• Add $1,500-$4,000 for drywall repair if walls are opened

Insurance won't cover repipe unless a covered loss damaged the system. Most homeowners finance through the plumbing company — common 12-24 month no-interest plans available from larger franchises.

Sewer line replacement. $3,500-$25,000 — huge range because access drives everything:

• Traditional trench dig (short run, open yard): $50-$200/ft. Most jobs $4,000-$10,000.
• Trenchless (pipe bursting or relining): $80-$250/ft. Worth it when the line runs under concrete, mature landscaping, or city sidewalks. Total $8,000-$25,000.
• Add $1,500-$5,000 for permit, traffic control, and reconnect if line crosses public ROW.

Always camera-inspect before replacing ($150-$400 for a sewer scope). If the line is only broken in one spot, you might get away with a spot repair at half the cost of full replacement.

How Plumbers Quote — Flat-Rate vs Hourly

Two pricing models dominate residential plumbing:

Hourly + materials. Mostly independents and small shops. Example: $125/hr, 2-hour minimum, materials at cost+15%. Pros: transparent, fair on fast jobs. Cons: no protection if the job runs long.

Flat-rate. Most franchises (Roto-Rooter, Benjamin Franklin, Mr. Rooter) and larger independents. Plumber arrives, diagnoses, opens a rate book, quotes a fixed price. Pros: no surprises, you know the cost before work starts. Cons: 30-60% markup baked into the book.

Neither is dishonest. Flat-rate companies need bigger margins because they cover the risk of jobs running over, free re-visits, and warranty work. Hourly works better if you can describe the job precisely upfront and the plumber has done it 100 times.

When to DIY vs Call a Pro

DIY-friendly (no permit, no shutoff past meter):

• Toilet flapper, fill valve, wax ring
• Sink faucet replacement (if existing shutoffs work)
• Garbage disposal swap
• Showerhead replacement
• P-trap unclog under sink
• Snake a single drain with a hand auger

Call a pro:

• Anything past the main shutoff at street
• Anything behind drywall or under slab
• Water heater replacement (permit required in most jurisdictions; gas work requires license)
• Sewer line work
• Repiping
• Frozen pipe thaw if you're not sure exactly where the freeze is
• Gas leaks — always

And the boring reason that beats all: if a DIY repair causes water damage, your homeowner's insurance may deny the claim. Licensed plumber's work is usually covered; your own work usually isn't.